Olivier Cresp — The Artisanal Alchemist of Modern Perfumery

Olivier Cresp — Master Perfumer | DSM-Firmenich

Born: 12.19.1955, Grasse, France

Occupation: Master Perfumer, DSM-Firmenich

Known For: Angel (Thierry Mugler), Light Blue (Dolce & Gabbana), Nina (Nina Ricci), Black XS (Paco Rabanne)

Active Since: 1975 – present


🎓 Education and Training

Cresp completed his schooling at Institut Fénelon in Grasse and the Cours Cannois in Cannes before pursuing his father’s suggestion to gain experience abroad.

At age 18, he moved to the United States to begin hands-on industry training at Biddle Sawyer Corporation in New Jersey (September 1975 – December 1976), specializing in aroma chemicals, natural extracts, and flavor ingredients.

  • Trained in natural extraction techniques, including jasmine extraction.
  • Worked in flavor development, learning to balance sweetness, texture, and depth.
  • Developed English proficiency and technical understanding of fragrance markets.

Cresp has often said this early experience “changed everything,” giving him practical exposure to both raw material science and flavor artistry.


💼 Professional Journey

After returning to Europe, Olivier joined De Laire (1975), then Quest International (now part of Givaudan). In 1992, he joined Firmenich — today part of DSM-Firmenich — where he became one of the company’s most celebrated creators. His promotion to Master Perfumer in 2006 placed him among a rare circle of global olfactory masters.


🪶 Signature Style and Philosophy

Cresp’s creations are known for their clarity, warmth, and emotional immediacy. He avoids excessive complexity, preferring to tell a story with few, perfectly chosen notes.

“A perfume should be immediately understood and eternally loved.”

He is recognized as one of the inventors of the “gourmand” fragrance family — sweet, edible, and comforting — thanks to his pioneering work on Angel (1992).


🌍 Iconic Creations

YearFragranceBrand / House
1992AngelThierry Mugler
1994Sun Moon StarsKarl Lagerfeld
1997CK BeCalvin Klein
2001Light BlueDolce & Gabbana
2002Amor AmorCacharel
2004Black XSPaco Rabanne
2006NinaNina Ricci
2007Mandarine BasilicGuerlain (Aqua Allegoria)
2007Noir de Noir (co-creation)Tom Ford Private Blend
2008Only the BraveDiesel
2010Boss Bottled NightHugo Boss
2014LunaNina Ricci
2019Angel Eau de ToiletteMugler
2020A Cœur CollectionOlivier & Sébastien Cresp

👨👩👧👦 Family and Legacy

Together, they represent the fourth generation of the Cresp family’s involvement in perfumery.


🏅 Recognition

  • Master Perfumer, Firmenich (2006)
  • Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres, French Ministry of Culture
  • Multiple international fragrance awards and lifetime-achievement honors.

🌿 Current Work

Today, Olivier Cresp continues as Master Perfumer at DSM-Firmenich while pursuing independent artistic projects through AKRO and A Cœur.

He divides his time between Paris and Geneva, mentoring emerging perfumers and contributing to Firmenich’s Fine Fragrance division.


💬 Legacy

Olivier Cresp transformed modern perfumery with a balance of artistry, simplicity, and emotional connection. His approach — grounded in both Grasse’s natural tradition and his formative training at Biddle Sawyer — continues to inspire perfumers around the world.

“Perfume is not made of notes. It is made of memories, emotions, and the love you put into it.”

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